The global obsession with footwear hasn’t taken so much as a pause despite the retail downturn of the last two years. In fact, it has grown even stronger across all price points. From Payless collaborations with Christian Siriano and Lela Rose to luxury designers Behnaz Kanani and Mai Lamore making shoe creations in the $5,000 to 10,000 range, the international obsession with shoes shows no sign of abating. And now the industry has its first crossover hit with SHOES, a new dance musical, which opened in London’s West End last week.

Featuring song and dance numbers ranging from “The Stiletto” to “Vex in the City” to the aptly titled “Salvatore Ferragamo,” the production is poised to continue to elevate footwear’s current cultural status. A slew of designers contributed to the musical, from Georgina Goodman to the legendary Thierry de Havilland, Beatrix Ong, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tracey Neuls, Joseph Azagury, Oliver Sweeney and Rob Goodwin, to name just a few.

Igniting the London shoe design community, designers weighed in on the importance of this production in the minds of women, fashion consumers and the footwear industry itself. Georgina Goodman, for instance, loved the enticing physicality of the production: “It is amazing! The dancers are mesmerizing, so strong, fluid and powerful; a pure celebration of just how inexplicable is our love of shoes.” Beatrix Ong noted, ” I’m quite used to working out my sketches to become a shoe, but working out a giant one for a musical stage that had to function on so many levels was really exciting. I’m really proud to have been a part of it.” Rob Goodwin, meanwhile, zeroed in on the lust the show uncovers, “The show taps into the obsession that many women have for their shoes, which can sometimes border on the insane. It manages to do this in a celebratory way without insulting the shoe industry or its customers, reinforcing the prestige of great brands and introduces newer names to an interested audience. It shines a big welcome spotlight on our world.” Designer Tracy Neuls remarked, “Sometimes design can be taken too seriously in an elitist way and I think the approach to SHOES is appropriately humorous.”

Joseph Azagury felt the show highlighted the growing centrality footwear occupies in the wardrobe. “Shoes have become more of a statement of expression rather than an accessory,” he noted. Poppy Watson who is an ex-dancer and the marketing director at Oliver Sweeney commented, “the show raises the visibility of the footwear industry through the very fact that it’s on, and the work they have done for the show. It also shows that passion for shoes is something that everyone has . . . part of everyone’s life.”

Written and composed by Richard Thomas, who is best known for his work Jerry Springer: The Opera, and choreographed by a team led by Stephan Mears, the Sadler’s Wells performance is a departure from its usual fare. However, after Richard’s powerful 15-minute pitch leading with the one simple word (“Shoes!”), Alistair Spaulding, the director of acclaimed dance centre Sadlers Wells, greenlit the show immediately and went forward full force. Noted Ong: “It’s very difficult in any project to do with shoes that isn’t going to be contrived. But Richard nailed it. The show is amazing: beautiful, funny and surprisingly emotional in parts, with original songs and performances by an excellent cast.” Stay tuned for more footwear fantasy. We’re sure TV shows, iPhone apps and more will start to ignite the shoe landscape.

-Meghan Cleary

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Portland, LA, New York | January 4, 2011
STYLE ON THE GO WITH FASHION WHEELIES
By Meghan Cleary
Fashion is suddenly going mobile from Portland to Atlanta, and although there’s an easy comparison to be made with the rising popularity of food trucks, this aesthetic trend seems to be more of a consumer-driven concept. Retailers have been experimenting with new shopping experiences to survive in a global economy that demands richer, more intimate shopping experiences on a hyper-local basis, and this latest alternative uniquely includes flatbed trucks, refurbished airstreams and vintage buses.

Cynthia Rowley, a pioneer of the mobile fashion movement, began with her trailer at Art Basel in 2009. “I believe in the accessibility of fashion at every level,” she explains, and, sure enough, the flexibility of her “Mobile Fashion Unit” allows shoppers to have the store come to them—or even host a shopping party in their driveway. “The Mobile Fashion Unit allows us a greater understanding of markets all over the country, where we don’t have a physical store presence,” adds Rowley’s PR director, Elyssa Dimant. “Getting this kind of rich perspective on what resonates with consumers is really key for us.”

Wanderlust, meanwhile, was inspired by co-owners Vanessa and Dan Lurie’s twin love of the local food trucks in their native Portland and of vintage goods. Last year, they bought a 10′ x 7′, 1969 Cardinal Deluxe trailer, refurbished it and stocked it with a stunningly curated mix of decor and apparel goods sourced from local, international and online vendors alike. “I hear from customers how cozy it is inside and that it feels like a little gypsy caravan,” says Vanessa. “Everyone who comes inside tends to look at every single item, like they’re on a treasure hunt.” Those items include carefully selected pieces like sustainable design from Showpony, Present and Correct’s printed goods, miniatures from Etsy seller Vector Cloud, work by artist Mary Kate McDevitt and Vanessa’s own line of paper curios, Antelope Baby. True to its name, Wanderlust will travel the West Coast, stopping in Seattle and San Francisco next.

Lodekka, another Portland vendor, fittingly bills itself as “the double-decker dress shop.” After Erin Sutherland, the store’s proprietor, lost her day job in PR in April, she bought a double-decker bus that originally hailed from Liverpool and refurbished it as a dress store. “Sales have been really plentiful, and [even] guys and kids stop in just to check out the actual bus,” she notes. Although the bus doesn’t travel, it’s filled with enough vintage and resale apparel, shoes and other ephemera—from antique dress shields to record albums, matchbooks and games—to keep visitors locally invested.

Fashion Los Angeles, a new organization determined to revive LA Fashion Week in a serious way, was launched by partners Michael Venedicto and Jeff Warrington in early 2009. The duo plans to create a village of temporary pre-fab buildings on top of a parking lot. Trucked in for the week only, the pre-fabs will be paired with other mobile runways like flatbed trucks during the week-long installation. With support from the LA mayor’s office, it looks like these mobile fashion units will be a unique destination for West Coast fashionistas come February.
-Meghan Cleary

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I had the chance to chat with the beautiful Olivia Wilde at the TRON/ Legacy pop-up party a few weeks back about the gorgeous Jerome Rousseau stilettos he designed inspired by the movie — and by her. It was a crazy red carpet but Olivia really wanted to talk stiletto with us so we got right to it! Read here about the history behind these shoes. I had the good fortune to chat both of them and hear what Olivia thought about Jerome’s creations. As you can see he was very overwhelmed by her incredible compliments. Enjoy!

http://www.jeromecrousseau.com/JEROME_C._ROUSSEAU_shoes.html

http://twitter.com/DisneyLiving

http://twitter.com/oliviawilde

http://twitter.com/jcglobal

http://disney.go.com/tron/

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hey guys — my review of Fall trends is up on JCREPORT. Check it out.

THE FALL SHOE REPORT

By Meghan Cleary

The shoescape for Fall 2010 is a promising one, full of exciting stories on silhouettes and materials as well as a return to some classic early-’90s toe shapes and lasts. Repertoires are also set to emphasize exotic skins and trims, mesh overlays, cutwork, and lattice.

Chrissie Morris has deservedly seen her profile skyrocket not only by adding Bellhaus and Kirna Zabete, but Tender, Zainab, and The Wynn to her roster of retailers, in addition to acquiring her own factory in Italy after only six short seasons.  On the materials side, she remains an innovator to watch, pairing a material loved by surfers–neoprene with stingray accents, as well as velcro and stretch leather as “bandage” accents. Her intriguing new use of magnets–running vertically down the heels, allowing for magnetized trims to be taken on and off at will, pairing skin accents with a plain shoe depending on the wearer’s mood–in her shoes have never been seen before. A favorite of fashion influencers from Queen Rania to Jada Pinkett Smith, Morris’ angular cutwork, vertiginous platforms, and feathers round out the collection.

Nicole Brundage continues to light up the landscape with a chunky parenthesis heel and whimsical bow-wrap details in an autumnal palette of burnished brown leathers, steel velvets, and washed metallic slate grey suedes. Her new endeavor, Acrobats of God, features a more pared-down sensibility with wooden heels and thick elastic straps on every style, which are being eaten up by shoppers everywhere from Opening Ceremony to Le Bon Marche–where a special pop-up store featured the shoes prominently this Spring. Fall sees Acrobats of God move into deeper hues from saturated navy to black, introducing a modified t-strap style and aggressive tread soles.

Celebs from Dita von Teese to Britney Spears continue to embrace Max Kibardin’s peep-toe ankle booties and skyscraper stilettos with oversize ankle bows, as well as his refined latticework and sophisticated lasts. Metallics like glossy gold and burnished copper stand out, as well as grey and black satin, with such accents as delicate feathers to chunky rectangular crystals. A refined pointy toe also makes a comeback here in quite a few elegant evening sandal looks that feature cutwork so delicate it seems to be suspended on the foot.

Two bright new stars out of London join forces with the collaboration of United Nude and Iris van Herpen, an Amsterdam expat apparel designer whose made-to-order creations usually sell for more than £1500 a pair. Turning out futuristic hoof-like platforms in black and glossy gold with slashed leather detailing, at  £895 these avant-garde creations are worth a second, third, and fourth look. Recent graduate Rick Goodwin makes shoes–fetish-inspired, turned-toe, extreme platforms with severe box-toe accents and details including nails hanging from the heel–which compliment and take inspiration from his handmade helmets. These one-of-a-kind creations are still being made in his home studio, so catch them while you can.

Will Tabitha Simmons continue her stint as the shoe world’s latest It Girl with her mix of exotic skins and old-world informed silhouettes? Will Rick Owens persevere as the master of gutsy, hard, angular elegance in the platform? We are looking forward to finding out.

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April 7, 2010
5FROM CALIFORNIA PROMISES A NEW KIND OF CALIFORNIA DREAMING
By Meghan Cleary

Fifteen years after Rick Owens launched his eponymous knitwear line in Los Angeles, the once style-challenged city has transformed into a fashion mecca. The LA landscape is now dotted with burgeoning talents—such as Endovanera, J Mary, Raquel Allegra, Franklin + Gower—while stores like Church, Zainab and Unholy Matrimony have become boutique tastemakers and big designers increasingly look out West for inspiration. In the midst of this boom, 5From California is a new collective that’s determined to blow LA stereotypes out of the water—on a global scale.

Comprised of Katy Rodriguez, Jenni Kayne, Emily Jerome, Gregory Parkinson and Jerome Rousseau, the group has an independent spirit and edgy approach that will quickly influence the fashion world at large. Longtime friends Rodriguez and Parkinson launched the collective out of a desire for more control over how their collections were presented and sold. Jerome, a designer and recent LA transplant, was introduced to the group by Rodriguez’s muse, Jessica Joffe, while Barney’s Michelle Smoot recommended Rousseau and the group organically grew to include Jenni Kayne. “We love L.A and wanted to include other people we like,” Parkinson explains of the way her brainchild has grown.

For seven days during Paris Fashion Week, 5From California showed in the heart of the Marais at an art gallery called Galerie DIX9. Buyers from Harvey Nichols, Barneys, Le bon Marche and Browns dropped by, along with editors from Vogue, Marie Claire, UK Elle and LUCKY. A subsequent follow-up event was held at LA’s Palihouse, where everyone from WWD to Style.com dropped by for a sneak peek at the designers’ looks for fall.

The members of 5From California represent what is unique about the LA landscape, and, increasingly, its the fashion scene as well—an eclectic combination of music art, international residents, an emphasis on the natural world as well as access to the glitz and glam of Hollywood. “I gather inspiration from various other places and references, but it is here that I get to develop the ideas and concepts that shape my collections,” confesses Rousseau. For Emily Jerome, on the other hand, LA fostered a desire for design: “I felt like I had nothing to wear and couldn’t find exactly what I wanted , so I made my own clothes!”

LA still has a ways to go before becoming a serious fashion capital, but with 5From California and its peers’ flurry of talent and activity, it’s not all that far away.

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Hey guys, thought I would run one of my fave interviews that fabulous writer and cupcake enthusiast Rachel Kramer Bussell wrote a few years ago.

It popped into my head today when I was thinking about my journey of shoe and even though I obviously used way too many exclamation points in this interview I think it really captures my passion for shoes, and it kind of reminded me of all that love and passion I have for footwear, so wanted to share it with you.

From The Gothamist

Meghan Cleary, shoe expert, author, The Perfect Fit

Meghan Cleary wasn’t born with shoes on her feet, but this shoe lover quickly found out what her favorite wardrobe item is, and has written The Perfect Fit: What Your Shoes Say About You (Chronicle Books, 2005), in which she maps out a woman’s ideal look, job and mate based on her favorite shoe to bring her gospel to the masses. The West Village resident has appeared on many talk shows, analyzing wearer’s shoe dates, is a recurring shoe expert on Soaptalk and Savvy, has written for the likes of Marie Claire and Time Out New York, and also blogs about shoe news. The extremely perky Cleary gave Gothamist the scoop on New York women’s shoe preferences and invoking your inner stiletto.

Have you always been interested in shoes? What’s the first pair you remember acquiring that you really wanted?
When I was five, I became totally obsessed with this pair of baby blue wedge espadrille sandals with flowered embroidery. They just seemed like the ultimate accessory–even though I probably didn’t even know what that word meant then!! I bothered my mom till she bought them and I still have a picture of me in them with this hilarious pink lace dress that I thought went so well with them!

How did the book come about and how long did it take you to write? Did you have to do any research or was this all stuff you’d already observed?
Oh gosh, I think this book has always been inside me on some level. It wasn’t till my agent suggested I write about my little obsession that I even considered it something to actually merit writing about, but when I sat down to do the proposal it just all came flying out like it had been just sitting in there waiting to be written down. I think I wrote like almost half the book just in the proposal alone. Some of it came out of my own observations, some of it research I was doing with shoe designers, interviewing them for articles I was writing, I also did a little focus group online which is how I cemented my belief that every woman has a pair of stilettos somewhere in their closet and that usually they feel pretty hot when they put them on! I sat in on a shoemaking class with Emily Putterman who is like the doyenne of shoemaking here in NYC. Read a lot of magazines, researched a lot of shoe history. Took me about a year maybe from proposal to finishing.

What shoes are you wearing right now and what do they say about you?
My second fave ballet flats–they are lavender Leopoldo Giordano ballet flats and they have a really cool slight, slight wedgeish heel and this ruched leather on the toe and suede accents. And they are so comfy and at the same time very fashion forward. I can motor around in them all day, in fact I walked from 23rd and Lex down to my office in the West Village this morning in them. They say about me mostly that I am feeling grounded right now and in a doer mode. I feel sort of sweet and innocent in these shoes-very class president, everyone’s friend!

Out of all the types and signs in The Perfect Fit, which one are you and which are most of your friends? Are most people only one type, or does it really depend on their shoe/outfit?
I am definitely a split between ballet flat and stiletto girl. When I want to motor around and get things done, I’m in my round toed flat, and when I want to tower and feel my feminine power, I’m in a stiletto. I wear Stilettos to any important business meeting–it’s crucial for business success!

Are there particular shoes that New Yorkers are more partial to?
New Yorkers love a really cool designer sneaker. Vintage, one of a kind, anything special that you can’t get anywhere else. And there are of course lots of women who are absolutely devoted to their Manolos or Jimmy Choos in a way you won’t see really anywhere else I don’t think. We are talking about women who stand in lines blocks long for their sample sales and often buy like 5 pairs of the same shoe in different heel heights or colors. These are the true Stiltto women–who can walk a mile in their 100mm! I truly admire them!

Where are you on the comfort vs. style continuum? Do we have to sacrifice one for the other?
I have plenty of shoes I love but can only wear in very limited doses. You gotta be comfy and confident in your shoes or the rest of you will feel bad, that is sort of my philosophy. Saying that though, I have a pair of Sergio Rossi’s that I can only wear for like an hour or so at a time–the key is to know your shoes and know when you need to change it up. If I am out wearing this one pair of Sergio’s (they are SUPER hot tri-color python pump 100mm heel!) I know my time in them is limited so I wear them for the most important part of my eve then switch into other shoes I tuck in my bag. You’ve got to have a Stiletto strategy!!

What about guys, should they care as passionately about their shoes?
Guys really just need to make sure their shoes are in good condition, more than the actual type I would say. A man who takes care of his shoes has a high sense of self-esteem!

You’ve been on some of the new talk shows, such as Tony Danza and Tyra Banks. Is there any insider gossip you can tell us?
Only that Tony Danza wears Varda oxford wingtips and that Tyra loves flip flops!

What’s the most important thing to remember when you’re doing these talk show appearances?
To have fun and be in the moment. It can be a challenge only because there is really hot lights on you so you are sweating, you’ve got like a pounds of makeup on your face, there are a million people around watching you and different producers and cue cards in front of you and timing and studio audience and you have to try and remember what you want to get across and at the same time have fun with the host and be yourself!

If you see someone wearing a really horrid pair of shoes on the street, do you say anything to them?
Oh gosh, no. I just mentally make them over in my head. Like wow-she would look so cute with a pair of Puma trainers instead!!

What are your favorite places in the city to go for shoes?
Definitely Bergdorf 2nd floor and 5th floor. The 2nd floor is like a magical land for me! I love it! I feel like I am in the enchanted forest! And 5th floor is where we had my book launch and it has all the fun young brands like Marc Jacobs. I also love Verve on Bleecker street and Cobblestones in the East Village for vintage finds. Also Marc Jacobs is down my street and I go by the windows a lot for inspiration because he stocks a lot of his attention getting stuff in the windows and it’s fun to go by at night–has this otherwordly quality!

You’ve written a lot about finding the perfect shoe. Can you give us some tips on doing so?
Finding the perfect shoe is a blend of lifestyle assessment, evaluation of what you have and what your wear and don’t wear and doing a serious audit on your shoe wardrobe to find out where you might have gaps. You have got to take a realistic look at where you are at–i.e. I have a closet full of Stilettos but the reality is, I wear my ballet flats for everyday. I could definitely use a fill-in on the Ballet Flat category. I have been doing a lot of research about this lately and created a methodology. I have actually started doing Shoe Therapy sessions where I come into your closet and do my evaluation and create a prescription for you each season. It’s super fun and my clients get a lot out of it. Email me if you want the Shoe Therapist to come to your closet!!

How long should one plan on owning a favorite pair of heels? What’s the average lifespan?
This depends. I have shoes that are 10 years old–if you take care of them and get them re-soled and polish and condition them if they are leather you can get a lot of wear out of them. If you are constantly on your feet-i.e. if your job is like field producer, you will want to rotate your shoes to make them last longer.

Who do you turn to for shoe advice?
My friend Jason Campbell who edits jcreport.com or my friend Sarah Lukashok who is an amazing accessories designer. They both have an innate sense of both fashion and proportion and silhouette. For me, if I am asking for shoe advice it’s mostly how do these compliment a certain look or how do they work with what I’m wearing. My friend Tracy Cox too who is an amazing stylist (doing The Devil Wears Prada movie right now) is also a great shoe advisor. He turned me onto the idea of the neutral shoe–placing the emphasis more on my ensemble than the shoe itself. But sometimes I just have to kick it in my red stilettos!!

When you’re not shopping for or talking about shoes, what do you like to do?
Watch Law & Order reruns (the ones with Jerry Orbach), go on “market days” which is also known as SHOPPING!, talk to store owners, discover new things and meet people in my neighborhood. I love to go out for really long delicious dinners, take a long walk in the West side river park where I live, or just curl up with a good book. The problem with me is that I am a totally obsessive reader so once I open the book, I won’t stop very often till I finish, so reading a novel can be sort of a big commitment sometimes! I love reading fashion mags or just hanging with my girlfriends having brunch and dishing. Oh yeah, and I love going to the spa. Cornelia is my fave! They have these warm neck pillows they put on your neck and they feed you fresh berries!

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This fall, shoe designer Beatrix Ong is exploring new fashion avenues. Known for her sensuous ’30s-inspired platforms, signature asymmetrical high-heeled Mary Janes and chic flat sandals, the British designer will now debut an exclusive collaboration with luxury luggage company Globe Trotter.

Ong is a collector of vintage luggage—inluding a Globe Trotter piece once owned by the Duke of Westminster himself—so she has a personal interest in the timelessness and durability of the brand. She added her own twist to a trolley bag, suitcase and vanity trunk with exclusive exterior detailing in black with a white handle, along with a whimsical illustrated interior by Natasha Law featuring Ong’s shoes in a repeating pattern. Fashionistas and airline attendants from LA to London are already clamoring for the limited edition cases which will be available at Ong’s flagship in Mayfair shop this fall.

And in an effort to continue expanding her brand, Ong has also dipped a toe into the world of athletic shoes. In the coming season, she’ll also offer an Italian hand-finished, laser printed custom white and red rising phoenix on Nike Blazer high tops, which will be available on a made to order basis at her flagship this fall.

—Meghan Cleary

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With shoe obsessions continuing to grow exponentially, venerated footwear instutions have stepped up to the plate with products that satisfy industry influencers as well as the consumer audience.

Footwear Plus, the footwear industry’s monthly magazine, just launched a new website with a Nylon-esque feel and decidedly downtown sensibility, a daily updated blog with op-ed about how the larger retail world trends translate into the industry and a free Trendspotting email blast.

Meanwhile, ANCI (Associazione Nazionale Calzaturifci Italiani), otherwise known as the The National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers, follows up its groundbreaking Made in Italy social media campaign with a spot-on trend report for spring/summer ’10 straight from Milan. Originally intended for the shoe industry, the report offers key inspirations for global fashionistas this fall from trend stories such as Vertical Garden to Urban Chic Marina.

Despite publisher Jay Spaleta’s recent replacement by Men’s Vogue publisher Marc Berger, Footwear News pioneers forward this fall with the first ever Stepping Out in Italian Shoes event during Fashion Week in September. The event is set to be like an Academy Awards for shoes, celebrating the best in Italian design and manufacturing.

These changes, varied as they may be, could be the ticket to opening the industry to consumers rather than just insiders.

—Meghan Cleary

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etail Watch: TenOverSix’s Exclusive Appeal
June 11th, 2009 | Los Angeles

Since its debut in the fall of 2008, the eclectic and airy TenOverSix boutique has warmed the hearts of Los Angelenos with its New York state of mind. Owned by NYC expat and shoe designer Kristin Lee, Joe Cole, and Brady Cunningham, the store is chock full of accessories for women and men, art, design objects, lighting, furniture, and obscure books and magazines.

TenOverSix’s corner space on Beverly Boulevard stacks shoes on chairs suspended on the wall from Maloles, Eileen Shield for Zero+Maria Cornejo, Opening Ceremony, Bess and Matt Bernson. Apparel from Bodkin Brooklyn, Electric Feathers, Rachel Comey and Vivienne Westwood Anglomania, while bag lines by Acne, Alexander Wang, Rachel Nasvik, Martine Sitbon, Life with Bird and Hayden Hartnet populate the rest of the space in between the magazines and books.

The store has also cemented exclusive distribution in LA for Zan Zan eyewear, Six Scents perfume, Wundervoll lingerie, Ligia Dias, Silver Lining Vintage Eyewear and WANT Les Essentiels des la Vie, with an eye on acquiring more exclusive items from around the world. What’s more, they have also begun production on a TenOverSix private label line, designed by Lee and Brady, that will have its debut this fall at TenOverSix, Opening Ceremony in LA, New York and Tokyo as well as Steven Alan in New York.

Shop address: 7427 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA
323.330.9355

Shop address: 7427 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA
323.330.9355

—Meghan Cleary

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Debuting at MAGIC in August of 2008, the Radii collection features clean lines and is produced in action and full grain premium leathers as well as treated canvas. The line also includes textured, patterned materials such as suede, patent leather, nubuck, animal prints and perforations. The metallics and patent leathers are selling out as of now, but the white and black combinations a close second. For winter, expect to see more high tops with subtle embellishments like buckles and zippers as well as cleaner hues with accents of poppy colors. With a shopper-friendly price point of $90–120, these sneaks are sure to be a new basic for the fashion forward crowd.

For more information, see www.radiifootwear.com.

—Meghan Cleary

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