My article on the fab new men’s shoe store, LEffot, from JCREPORT:

Leffot’s Footwear Fantasy
September 24th, 2008 | New York
While women vie for spectators elsewhere in the city, men’s footwear specialty shop Leffot has taken up residence in the West Village. Located just a few doors down from the exquisite women’s shoe and jewelry store Diana Broussard, and a block away from the upscale children’s Shoe Garden, this retail-rich neighborhood seems to have transformed into a venerable shoe haven.

Steven Taffel, Leffot’s owner and proprietor, saw a need for a shop that catered to men who wanted luxury shoes but didn’t want to trek uptown to Barneys or Bergdorf. A former Prada executive, Taffel maintains that men love shoes as much as women do—they just don’t talk about it as much. To that end, he and his wife Hiroko have worked to create a welcoming and elegant, yet masculine space. They deployed architectural firm Front Studio to create a “dining room” where shoes are displayed on a 14-foot Hudson Furniture solid ash table, while a custom designed chandelier by Brand van Egmond provides low lighting and Timorous Beasties’ black-on-black floral wallpaper creates an understated ambiance.

The focus is on brands that make only shoes—rather than fashion companies with a shoe line—and the carefully edited selection includes ready-to-wear from Edward Green, Church’s, Pierre Corthay, J.M. Weston, Artioli and, exclusively to Leffot within the US, Gaziano & Girling and Aubercy. And, of course, custom shoes are also available. Never a better place for shoes to make the man.

Shop address: 10 Christopher Street, New York, NY 10014
212.989.4577
www.leffot.com

Had a fantastic time in Milan at MICAM where I learned amazing things about Made in Italy. I also had a chance to sit down with Vito Artioli who is not only an esteemed shoe designer but head of the Italian Footwear Association.

Here’s pics of some of Vito’s shoes.

Here’s the interview from JCREPORT:

Vito Artioli Steps Up The Shoe Industry
September 23rd, 2008 - Milan
Vito Artioli has worked in the shoe business since the wee age of five, and was recruited by his father Severino, who started the business in 1905, to start designing when he was only 16-years-old. From hand tanning select leathers with aniline, to the double and reverse stitching process, the name Artioli is synonymous with a level of handmade artisanship that speaks to today’s luxury consumer—not to mention statesmen and celebrities across the globe. And although the Italian shoe trade is undergoing a massive transformation, the brand has managed not only to retain its market share, but also to find fans in new markets from Dubai to Moscow. We recently sat down with Vito—who is also the President of the National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers—during MICAM, the global footwear show in Milan, to discuss the art of craftsmanship, why designers flock to Italy and what fuels creativity.

Miss Meghan: What does “Made In Italy” mean to you?

Vito Artioli: To me, “Made In Italy” means very gorgeous, well-made, created with love, reaching absolute beauty. The quality of “Made in Italy” is many things together: fit, materials, fashion, durability—the good and the beautiful together.

MM: When luxury consumers are shopping, when they see “Made in Italy,” what do you want them to think of?

VA: I would like them to think of the way of Italian living, our history, tradition, culture, civilization and sense of the beautiful.

MM: What trends are you seeing in Italian shoe design for Spring and beyond?

VA: The trends at this particular point, are truly born out of the elegance of the shoe’s lines—very high style, not too heavy, but not too simple.

For men, and especially for women, this is happening not only for dress and everyday shoes, but also in athletic shoes—which are becoming much more linear and thinner with more expensive sumptuous materials. Before it was a very heavy sole, and that is changing a lot. We are also seeing combinations of colors for women’s athletic shoes that are very new as well.

For summer we are seeing many sandals that show off the foot as a beautiful object, almost to the point of fetishism. Very high, thin, with rich uppers and for evening rich with stones, very sophisticated naturals and exotics—crocodile, lizard, alligator, ostrich in various colors, not only in classic black and brown, but pastel too.

The sandal is extremely important for spring, and we are also seeing a very flat sandal—preferred by very tall ladies with small husbands! These kinds of sandals are inspired by the Greco-Roman tradition that make the foot look almost bare. We are also seeing platform cork soles, cork giving a lightness and insulating the foot from the hot pavement. There’s an almost Egyptian influence as well, with lots of stones. These are styles that never went away—a classical silhouette more than 2,000-years-old.

MM: What do you think about the trend of some American designers such as Courtney Crawford, Carmen Ho and Nicole Brundage designing and launching their collections in Milan before their home market?

VA: Italy has such a strong tradition of beauty and art that is very, very important. Many students of design in every field from the US come and stay for a month or more at least once to see Florence, Venice, Rome, Sienna—all of our beautiful cities and masterpieces. When they come here it enriches them because you feel the culture of art and beauty even in the smallest of towns.

Once they start to design, it is normal for them to come to Milan—the capital of fashion—to test their wares because it is a leader of beauty, elegance and art in all fields. Fashion is one of the most important parts of art now, because it is a part of us. Shoes are the most important because elegance begins with the feet and ends with the head—shoes are not an accessory any longer, they are an essential part and foundation of fashion.

MM: What inspires you when you are designing your own line?

VA: The creation starts from both outside and inside. When you design you must have love, your heart must work with your head. If you start to design and your heart is not working, you will not make anything good. You must have something inside giving you feelings—happiness, nostalgia, romance—whatever it is. Read a romantic novel, see a movie, look at a Ferrari, create the sensation inside of you and then you create it in your own designs. Heart gives you the ability to create something loveable, and thus attractive to a consumer.

I still design at 72—I am the sole creator. I am a man but sensitivity is important. I go to the Amalfi Coast and I listen to the symphony under the open sky with the stars and moon above in an open space. I listen until dawn and see the panorama of the coast, which is unbelievable. I swear to you, I often cry. That is what inspires me, that is what pushes me to create.

My piece on Omelle is up on JCREPORT. As usual, JC is the first to cover this brand. I got a sneak peek of the styles at WSA and was blown away. Keep your eye on this line in the coming months.

“Omelle: Fresh Luxury For The Footwear Obsessed
August 4th, 2008 - Los Angeles
Omelle
Los Angeles-based designers Cherise Angelle and Nicole LaFave have put their collective visions together to birth a line of shoes that is sculptural, fresh and inspired. Angelle is a former luxury product placement specialist and LaFave a graphic designer (who was a top finalist at the BATA-sponsored 2007 International Shoe Design Competition), making them a footwear dream team.

Their debut at WSA featured a palette of saturated neutral colors, encompassing a spectrum from white to nude, grey, lavender and black—all crafted in rich, supple leathers. Made in Italy, their earthy wooden geometric heels are made from original designs that also include contrasting details like gold plating. This juxtaposition between soft and hard elements offers an intriguing new look at what luxury footwear can be.

Their line also includes soft, gently pointed-toe ballet flats, gladiators with velcro fastenings and hexagonal one-inch heels, towering stiletto sandals with cone heels and circular cutout patterns. Though directional, these designs are also extremely wearable and will serve as a perfect complement to the chunky jewelry and bold accessories for Spring ‘09. Of course, they’re also ideal staples for daily fashion rotation.”

As you know I am a big fan of both these designers — just saw some amazing lux-ey runnign around shoes from Eileen at WSA this week, and my Zero bolero jacket from 2006 never ceases to bring me compliments, it was fun to write a little tidbit on the both of them:

From JCREPORT:

“Maria Cornejo, the force behind Zero, tapped shoe designer Eileen Shields for an upcoming, collaborative shoe collection. Though Shields has been designing on her own since 2004, she was previously a consultant for both Zac Posen and Donna Karan, and her footwear is a current favorite among stars like Halle Berry and Eva Longoria (who commissioned a five-inch stiletto for her role on Desperate Housewives). Furthermore, Shields’ ubiquitous Juliette slipper gave new meaning to the words “ballet flat” with a chic, feminine t-strap. Now, she brings her sculptural elements to this collection for Zero with a chunky-heeled, pink haircalf pump as well as a slip-on oxford.

Maria Cornejos’ classic cuts and understated elegance pair well with Shield’s strong technical grasp. The pink haircalf whimsically corresponds with the pops of color and graphic prints woven throughout Cornejo’s autumn/winter ‘08 line, while the masculine oxfords offer a strong counterpoint to Cornejo’s feminine, circle-based patterns. This heavenly match will be available in stores come September.”

My article about Manolo’s fabulous collaborations is up on JC. Check it out:

“Manolo Blahnik is walking the edge for autumn/winter ‘08-’09. While he has collaborated with designers from Ossie Clark to Perry Ellis and Cerruti in the past, this year he walks the line with Thakoon, Christopher Kane, Rag & Bone and Alexander Wang.

As a design innovator who never alienates his core luxury consumer, Blahnik’s collaborations reveal fresh looks. The master cobbler’s well-honed shoe knowledge is revitalized by each wave of fresh inspiration, resulting in innovative lasts and details: for Alexander Wang he uncovers hard edges with a peep toe and gladiator ankle cage; the Satine for Christopher Kane reveals rich, deep hues in a luxe satin; and, for Thakoon, he emphasizes femininity through scalloped details on a black-and-white palette.

Step lively, now.”

So my feature on Jerome is up on JCREPORT, check it out.

Jerome and I had such a wonderful afternoon in his amazing LA studio which is on a tidal lagoon. As you’ll see from my pictures, he collects shoes by Swear and has a bird named Malibu who is quite charming. Remember this new shoe word: ANKLE SCALLOP.

Enjoy,
xo
Meg

Amour Proper: Rousseau’s Sensuous Shoes
April 30th, 2008 - Los Angeles
Astutely balancing innovation, luxury and silhouette, shoe designer Jerome Rousseau has quickly insinuated himself into the footwear landscape with a strong first collection. Rousseau’s influences range from the geometric paintings of avant-garde Ukrainian artist Kazimir Malevich to the 1978 erotic horror film Eyes of Laura Mars, and his love of balanced forms and obsessive attention to material detail are evident.

While Rousseau’s designs can be playful, they always have an aggressive-chic lurking just beneath the surface. On his pumps, a unique ankle scallop feature cups the heel and elongates the leg, while an ankle bootie incorporates a peekaboo, ruched detail at the back, which uses a carefully chosen patent that crinkles instead of bending stiffly. In another flourish, he chops the classic t-strap profile in two to create a “missing t-strap,” evoking a more modern gladiator silhouette. Material-wise, Rousseau works in metallic blue, black, chocolate and pumpkin suede and leather, adding details in metallic and studied matte Karung aquatic snakeskin (which is not on the endangered species list like so many exotics).

Rousseau trained at Cordwainers College in London before working for a variety of design luminaries including Alexander McQueen, Isabella Fiore and John Richmond, and the relationships he developed have paid off well in his solo endeavor. Rousseau’s connections enabled him to enlist a factory outside of Tuscany that produces for a number of blue-chip houses in the industry. On the sales side, his line is already exceeding projections for 2008, with orders from Fred Segal Feet in Los Angeles (who bought an unheard-of nine styles in the Fall collection), Harvey Nichols in Dubai and Mahna Mahna in Tokyo.

For his forthcoming Spring 2009 collection, Rousseau’s designs span the range from Moulin Rouge-esque citron pumps trimmed in black to gorgeous sea-green stilettos with floppy grosgrain bows. Happily, his designs also demonstrate a keen focus on ensuring the wearer’s comfort through the use of additional padding and attention to balance—even in the five-inch stilettos he has planned.

Rousseau may also be the first shoe designer to have his work figure prominently in a major motion picture—maverick director Terry Gilliam was so taken with the designs that he’s using them as set pieces in his upcoming film, The Imaginarium of Dr. Parnassus, starring Johnny Depp and Lily Cole. In the shoe scene, the pair dance, twirling amid 30-foot replicas of Rousseau’s creations in a veritable stiletto heaven.

From JCREPORT:

“Get A Leg Up With Falke
April 17th, 2008 - Germany

The brand’s signature process and materials are unparalleled; more than 30 pairs of experienced hands touch each pair of socks, all of which are hand-bound, leaving virtually no seaming on the toe, and the range is constructed out of fabrics typically reserved for top quality men’s outerwear, such as multi-thread Chinese cashmere, Super 150 Australian Merino, pure Japanese silk and Fil d’Ecosse yarn. With all this attention to each and every thread, Falke’s tights and stockings are a truly sumptuous and sensual experence—one that might even convince you to stop going bare-legged this summer. . . “

Read the rest of the story here.

“From his exhibition at the FIT museum to the cult status of his skin-like boots among Manhattan’s style-obsessed to his new collection for One&Only Resorts, Christian Louboutin continues his bid for worldwide shoe domination.

Joining the ranks of Matthew Williamson, Anya Hindmarch and Alice Temperley, Louboutin is adding a line of espadrilles to the fashion mix at the luxury resorts. Ranging from a 12-cm mule wedge with straps of Indian ribbon laced with gold threading, to a 7-cm version in bright two-tone grosgrain ribbon, to a flat espadrille sandal with ankle ribbons, the shoes add a pop of color to the style collection, while the signature red soles lend a stamp of high-fashion authenticity. A must-have for in-the-know travelers seeking a chic alternative to the flip-flop.”

Inspired by her Uzbek grandmother’s indomitable strength and 1930s glamour, Cheyenne Morris, the designer of luxury shoe line Tashkent—named after the capital city of Uzbekistan—is giving the shoe landscape a distinctive new silhouette.

While she majored in sculpture at the School of Visual Arts, Morris used her local cobbler’s equipment in her off-hours to create handmade, one-of-a-kind shoe creations when she was just 19. She refined her designs quickly, and just a few years later, Morris manufactured two seasons of her own line which sold to stores like Scoop and Tracey Ross.

Read the rest of the article here.

My interview with Giuseppe is up on JCREPORT. I had such a wonderful time meeting the master himself, he was just as creative and brilliant as you would imagine him to be and I came away totally inspired about life.  

At the end of the interview for JC, I asked, “Giuseppe, if you were to choose a shoe for me from your showroom what would it be?”  He sat quietly for a moment, and then he started talking, in Italian, very quickly . . . “it is summer, you are in a long silk dress, Giambattista Valli, black or charcoal, long and silk, delicately made, you don’t see the shoe, you just see a flash of color, ” then he got up and walked across the showroom to bring me a gorgeous knotted, royal purple silk stiletto mule, “to step in a silk shoe is almost like going barefoot, there are no constrictions with this shoe, you are loose, free.”  

And that my friends, is a true shoe prescription.

Read what he had to say about his inspiration, what it means to be Made in Italy and all about women and mood and shoes.

“JC Report (me): Where you do find inspiration for your line?

Giuseppe Zanotti: I try to understand the woman’s sensibility. Inspiration for the collection could come from many different places—simple pictures from Italian photographs from the ’60s and ’70s. I might be inspired by the mood, the makeup, the atmosphere, the time period, and then I take that and project it into future, like a time machine. I run from the past and the future to the secret women’s wardrobe—every woman lets me into their personal closets. I want to capture their secret desires both in private and everyday life—from shopping to cocktail parties—

to stop and study the little private details in a woman’s life. 

JCR: How did it help to just focus on shoes?

GZ: When I saw others do full collections—lifestyle, home, earrings, etc—this is business, I understand, I like this. But when we talk about shoes, it is a serious job—not many others are doing it at this level. I want to do a fusion of both creativity and production—

the correct way for this time, and then also the future. Timeless designs not for the fashion, but for a woman’s wardrobe forever. My mission is to do shoes and stay focused on that, to understand what I can do more for my women. I need to study more in shoes. Do I want to jump into another thing? No. I want to learn more about shoes, learn about myself and my identity. I do not want to outpace my company.

JCR: What’s your favorite new store?

GZ: Fifteen years ago, thinking about stores, [I] thought about different markets—it was very difficult—

NYC, London, Milan, Tokyo, we created the same store, atmosphere and mood across the globe, but the NYC Madison store and Sloane Street in London… there are more elements that are close to me from the studio in those stores because there is a bit more room.

JCR: How has Hollywood had an impact on your business?

GZ: Rock stars love to wear something more unique, sexy, sophisticated, super-crazy for the Grammys and for videos and concerts—

super-crazy but super-classy. Sometimes sweet, sometimes aggressive. ” Read the entire interview here.